April 26, 2008

2 months late

I had almost given up hope this year. Eventually with only two months delay I am able to put away my Sub Zero Down Ski jacket that I have been wearing since November now everyday. Just when we almost got used to the nightmare, temperatures rose for the first time this year above 5 degrees this weekend and it stoppped raining as well. Actually the thermometer showed 25 degrees, and so spring was simply skipped this year and we moved directly from winter to summer within one day. Sorry for the boring topic, the wheather. But no. It is amazing how sudden sunshine has the capacity to change my mood and thoughts. From one day to the other I have given up plans to leave this city, country or even the whole continent, to move to the carribean forever. Paris (probably like any other place in the world ?) becomes an irresistable city in the sun, and thoughts about one day opening a little bistrot here (why move to Provence ?) even crossed my mind.

Just 10 minutes walk from my home, the Luxembourg garden below, where Parisiens and tourists relax in a beautiful setting, as soon as the sun is out.

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April 06, 2008

Le Pont Alexandre III

On my day off today I walked a lot trying to enjoy Paris, despite the ugly winter wheather I am getting now really tired of. To walk from the Dome des Invalides in the 7th to the Grand Palais in the 8th arrondissement you have to cross the Seine on one of Paris most beautiful bridges, the pont Alexandre III, a gift from the Russian Tsar to France for the Universal Exhibition in 1900. An opportunity to take some postcard pictures.

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November 18, 2007

I survived Beaujolais Nouveau

Beaujolais_2007_021Sorry I haven't posted for a while, reason is I had to recover a couple of days from a wild Beaujolais Nouveau evening. I am fine again. Normally I am not a fan of Beaujolais Nouveau. Cheap wine, that causes headache, supported by big marketing, that makes each 3rd Thursday in November a big worlwide event.

But the perspective to go out with my Japanese friend Ayako and potentially have some fun together in a bar in Montparnasse (those days/nights in Paris you go out where you live, because of the public transport strike), made me overcome my doubts.

After some strolling around my neighbourhood, we decided that the Café Odessa would be a good place. Fun musette musique (very traditional French accordion music from the 1920s or 30s, something I would under normal circumstances never listen to), straw on the floor and everywhere, disguised and crazy waiters (that later danced on the tables), and some special offers for charcuterie to go with the wine. To make a long story short, Beajoulais Nouveau indeed gives a LOT of headache, but when celebrated with good company in the right environment, it can be an unforgettable evening. (Maybe one glass less next time though...)

Beginning of the evening : "just one glass" and the charcuterie plate. The waiters are joking with us when we take the pictures, but we are not (yet) really receptive... When we ask for more bread, they bring popcorn...

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A couple of glasses later :
The waiters dance on the table, get closer, and I (covered with straw) fall in love with a beaujolais colored balloon. I gave him my phone number, but he hasn't called yet...

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A couple of glasses later :

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A couple of glasses later :
No more pictures existing. And that's good.

July 14, 2007

Panem et circenses

I am very disappointed, not to say shocked, that nobody has yet found the solution to my quiz #1). #2) nobody will find out I am afraid and that's ok, but #1) is really too easy ! Anyway, as nobody suggested a solution yet, let's assume that the reason why the new very dynamic French President sponsored a big free rock concert in Paris today on the Champs de Mars by La Tour, is the celebration of today's stage win of Le Tour by a German. Performers were Nelly Furtado, Laura Pausini, Tokio Hotel, Bob Sinclair and French star Michel Polnareff. Besides me and the President there were 599998 other people to celebrate this so I just read, plus it was live on TV. A bit of Panem and Circenses, but I should probably be more positive. After all it was a great party that many people enjoyed.

I mainly went to see the subsequent fireworks, offered each year by the town of Paris. It was quite spectacular. The Eiffel Tower keeps its magic for me, each time I go.... This was at the same time a nice personal (temporary) good-bye to Paris, as I am leaving Tuesday to start my 4 months stage in the South-West of France.

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Vive la France !

June 28, 2007

Monet's Garden

FootbridgeI haven been a Monet fan since 1997 when during life #1 on a business trip to Philadelphia I went to the Philadelphia Museum of Art and got litterally paralized in front of a painting of the Japanese footbridge, sat down and observed it a very very long time. In fact I don't recall any other painting from that museum. Since then I have been chasing Monet's waterlily exhibitions and paintings around the world. Well maybe I am exagerating a little, but I was in London, Zurich, and Paris for that purpose.

So since a couple of years, very high on my list of things to do in life, there has been the wish to visit Monet's garden in Giverny, 80km west of Paris, where he lived 43 years until his death in 1926, and painted all the waterlilies. And today.......... was the day !!!

I am lucky that friends from Grenoble, Allison and Paul and Ella have moved to the Paris suburbs early this year, and they have a big house and a car, so it starts to become my second home ;) Allison also had Giverny on her wish list, so we went together by car today. I mention the car, because traveling by car (as opposed to public transport) has become something extraordinary and kind of luxury to me since I sold a certain little red one.

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What shall I say... It was so beautiful and breathtaking, impossible to describe. I had not expecteded that the waterlily pond was in fact a painting of nature by itself.

And it might sound strange, after having seen so many of Monet's waterlily paintings, I felt like becoming part of a painting myself. I can only recommend to any Monet lover to make this pilgrimage.

As it is impossible to describe, I will not ramble on about how beautiful it was, but invite you to check out some of the photos I took from Monet's house (including his kitchen of course !) and his waterlily pond here.

I am surprised how well they capture the atmosphere. Pictures almost like paintings....

Merci Allison for the ride and the wonderful day !!!

June 23, 2007

fête de la musique

As you might have noticed I haven't updated my current favourite music for a while, which is unusual for me, but also linked to all the focussed exam preparation. But on Thursday music made it back into my life with a big bang. Everybody was out in the streets to celebrate the Fete de la musique, an event taking place all over France since 1982 every year on June 21st. The idea of the Fete de la musique is to encourage amateur bands play their music in the streets and get their night of fame, but also to make all kinds of music accessible to a wide audience through free concerts.

It was launched by Jack Lang, former culture minister, and I read that this year he kicked off the same event in New York. Which makes New York lagging 25 years behind Paris... !!!

I started to read the big program at 7 p.m. to check out, which route through Paris I should take to check out some jazz groups, when I found THE concert to go to : Kurt Masur, conducting Beethoven's 5th Symphony with the Orchestre National de France in my favourite museum, the Musée d'Orsay (a transformed train station built in 1900). But : limited number of people accepted. So I ran, ran, ran, hopped on the metro, ran again, and .... as expected there was an enourmous queue, but I was let into the museum at 7.50 p.m ! I was very excited, and couldn't believe I belonged to the lucky ones to have made it. No planning, no entrance fee and seeing one of the greates conducturs playing one of the greatest pieces of classic music in the most beautiful location possible. How lucky I was !!! Kurt Masur was the director of the New York Symphonic Orchestra until 2002 and is still the conductor of the London Symphonic Orchestra. As a funny coincidence my parents had just been four days before in Leipzig, Germany to his 80th birthday celebration gala concert, so I was satisfied to be able to catch up now...

The ambiance was very special and I could tell the orchestra and Kurt Masur did enjoy the unusual environment. I was very moved during the whole concert. C'etait vraiement un grand moment !

Sorry for the wild moving camera, I was too excited, and am definitely a better photographer than movie-maker...

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Pictures taken before the concert from the audience towards the orchestra and from the orchestra's view into the audience after the concert.

After the concert I went back to my original plan, to stroll some neighbourhoods and check out the small unknown groups playing on every street corner. I started in the Marais, on the place the Vosges, another favourite place of mine in Paris, usually very quiet, transformed by hundreds of singing people under the arcades, walking back by Notre Dame, watching bands playing on the banks of the Seine, then via the boulevard Saint Germain, where cars couldn't move any more, stuck in the crowd. In St. Germain things got a bit too wild for me, and I started to feel almost scared by the crowd, now many people with bottles in hand (and head) so I took the rue de Rennes back home, where the second best group of my evening played pop/rock from the 80s in a street cafe, with an enthusiastic audience that blocked the wide Rue de Rennes, so that traffic got stuck there as well.

The passing policemen, instead of moving the people from the street, were waving from their cars that night to the band...

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Crowded Place des Vosges

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Even more crowded street in St. Germain. The band is on the left side in the middle next to the girl with the trumpet standing above the crowd.

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A group playing on the Seine bank next to Notre Dame, with the audience on the stairs.

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My last stop (in the background the lights of Tour Montparnasse near my home): a band in the Cafe du Metro with a big audience dancing and occupying the Rue de Rennes.

April 21, 2007

J-1 - Allez voter !

Tomorrow French citizens vote in a direct election for the next French president. The two out of 12 candidates with the highest number of votes (unless one gets more than 50% in the first round) will go into a second decisive election round, the famous "deuxième tour" on May 6th.

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Crédit Photo : TF1/LCI

Biggest chances to make the second round among the above 12 candidates on the voting list are given to Nicolas Sarkozy ("Center-right", 52 years old, third line, left column, dreaming openly since 51 years of becoming French president) and Segolene Royal (Socialist, 53, second line, right column) but French pre-election polls have been wrong 5 years ago when the extreme right-wing candidate Le Pen made it unpredicted into the second round, leading to a big shock and a huge mobilization of voters in the second round.

So excuse me for a second, I need to have a word with my French readers : Allez voter ! Ne pas voter n'est pas une option ! Souvenez vous de 2002, et aussi pensez a toutes ces pays ou on lutte pour avoir la démocratie. Ne jettez pas ce droit precieux !

Liberation_april_21_2007Obviously there is no other topic in the French news any more... I am looking forward to the end of the campaign, the end of the publication and discussion of 100 daily latest polls and to the new president shaking up this country a bit (hopefully in a positive direction).

The most original and eye-catching newspaper title this morning was the one of "Liberation". No photos, no names, just the political direction to vote "à gauche" (left).

To quote a CNN.com article "No matter who makes it, France is bound to change".

To quote the German weekly "stern" : "No matter who wins the election, almost nothing is going to change in France."

April 15, 2007

Back on my favorite café terrace

Ostern_2007_003_2Thanks to a strike of the air traffic controllers in Paris (no, it is not a clichée), I stayed in Germany a bit longer than planned. I had spend the Easter holidays with my own family and the one of my godchild Amelie and her new born baby-brother. Here she is after finding the first hidden egg (traditionally brought by the "Osterhase", the easter rabbit) on Easter Sunday.

To make sure I wouldn't relax too much, I had brought my cooking tools and the pâtisserie recipes for all the possible desserts and cakes that could be part of the final exam. So they got one dessert and one cake per day. I am glad I practiced, because there were a couple of mistakes I made, that would have made me fail the final exam, that now won't happen again. For example the caramel for the most basic french dessert, Crème Caramel, failed 2 times, I almost gave up. I should blame it on my most regular blog reader's stove, and completely inadequate cooking tools, though. I think that is a good excuse.

To make things worse my friends had invited some of their friends for dinner one evening announcing, that the desserts would be made by a "great French cook". Thanks for the pressure.... But I made it, and so they got a nice selection of the big classics (tarte au citron, creme caramel, tarte aux pommes and mousse au chocolat), and it seems their guests loved it...

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But now I am back in Paris with gorgeous Summer weather, temperatures around 27° C, and so as I predicted before leaving it is impossible for me to just stay inside my tiny dark appartment and accomplish my power learning plan. So I agreed with myself this morning on a compromise, and took instead of the Sunday newspaper a cuisine book to the Café de la Place, being able to combine my favorite occupation with studying for the final exams.

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The plan is to use the remaining seven days of my last vacation for studying the books and practicing each day in my kitchen two to three dishes that are likely to be part of the final exam. For example yesterday the plan was Quiche Lorraine, Jambonnettes de canetons a l'orange braisées, and Bavarois rubanée. As the stuffed duck legs in orange sauce is a rather complicated dish that I had missed in class, I started that one first, when Martina, a German student from the sup class called. Martina is a career changer like me, while she has a lot more cooking experience, including professional experience at three star restaurant Lucas Carton and in the Ritz where she is working right now, and she has her own weekly cooking show on German TV.

Already before the vacation she had offered me to provide some tips for efficient C.A.P. exam preparation, and when she called yesterday she suggested to overcome my unavailability to come to her house (with all that was going on my my kitchen !) by me taking my duck legs and all the mise en place already prepared to her. Great plan ! So I hopped on the bus with all my ingredients and continued cooking my jambonnettes in her kitchen, while getting lots of advice for free from a TV cook ! I was lucky, because there were many many of things to improve, that I would not have noticed on my own. Danke Martina !

I think, below I asked her "Glaubst Du dass die garniture jetzt genug caramelisiert ist ?" 

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The plan for today :
- theory : One chapter done with cafe crème in the sunshine. Closed.
- practice : catch up with plan from yesterday and combine with plan from today. That would mean : starters: quiche lorraine, velouté Dubarry
main dish : truite grenobloise, truite meuniere
desserts : bavarois rubannée, oeufs à la neige

If you wonder what all those are, check out tomorrow, to see whether I completed the plan (it's a lot though).

And now .... find me in my kitchen until ???.

February 13, 2007

Happy...

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Happy Valentine's day from the most romantic city of the world with this classic but always beautiful photo by Robert Doisneau of the kiss in front of the Hotel de Ville.
(yes, I know it was not as spontaneous as it seems...)

Special greetings to Margaret and Andy, remember ? ;)

January 02, 2007

Tu te souviens Sophie ?

To thank my friend Sophie for the longest and warmest comment ever created on this blog, (although as usual I understand only half of it, but she uses French slang on purpose) and to test her fantastic 2007 resolution (which is : checking my blog more regularly), here is a picture of her and myself during one of my 2006 highlights, when Sophie spent a weekend in November chez moi et avec moi in Paris.

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Druing that weekend she treated me to many "decadent" meals, and together we went to see Isabelle Adjani, one of France's best known actresses in "La derniere nuit de Marie Stuart" in the Marigny theatre on the Champs Elysées, in which she played Mary Stuart during her last 2 hours before being executed. An overwhelming performance, Adjani was so much into her role that she actually cried at the end, even still during the curtains...

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D'ailleurs on a toutes les deux mal estimé son age. Elle aura 52 cette année, incroyable non ? Et, sa mère est Allemande, tu le savais ?