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March 29, 2008

Millefeuille de carpaccio et choux vert croquant a la thai

Here is one of my favourite entrées du jour of the bistrot I have been working at now for two months already. The chef proprietaire, while running this so traditional french bistrot, loves thai cuisine and from time to time he adds a thai twist to the starters or dishes of the day. Therfore there has always to be ginger, lemon grass and coriander in the fridge. I love it, but it is not very well accepted by our customers, who come to our place mainly for blanquette de veau, foie gras, pied de porc or sole meuniere, so unfortunately this entrée du jour did not sell at all.

Carpacciao_choux_march_2008_005

Millefeuille means "thousand leaves" and while originally the name for a dessert with alternating layers of puff pastry and vanilla cream, it is used these days for any dish that has at least two alternating layers of two different ingredients. Typing this it just comes to my mind, that with this new "fashion" Lasagne could be called in a much more sophisticated way something like "Millefeuille de boeuf tomaté, feuilles de pates italienne et parmiggiano gratiné". How about that !?!

I had been in charge to "produce" this starter, and I liked it so much that I redid at home.

Green cabbage is shredded and fried just a minute in oil, only peppered, not salted (the salt will come later through the soja sauce). It is very important that the cabbages stays crunchy. For the seasoning mix olive oil, soja sauce, finely chopped lemon grass, garlic, coriander. (At home I also added chopped ginger an a little bit of hot red pepper). Season the cabbage with this mix like a salad. Alternate layers of thinly slices raw beef filet and seasoned cabbage three times. Finish with a coriander leaf.

March 23, 2008

Happy Easter

Happy Easter everybody...

Easter

Danke Nina fuer die Vorlage ;)

March 13, 2008

An ordinary day - part 2

During my break in the Café de la Place I decided I needed to do a bit more than just not sleep if I wanted to make the day feel a bit more extraordinary. The issue was, because of French laws I couldn't take a day off, and because of the working hours I couldn't really go out or celebrate or meet friends.

The only people I would be able to meet this year on my birthday were my new colleagues. So before returning back for the dinner service I bought the best chocolate cake in my neighbourhood patisserie. My new colleagues were really pleased, and I was glad that I had done it, because even if I hadn't told anybody about my birthday in the morning, they had found out through management. So one of the waiters surprised me with a flower bouquet, and then they put the "happy birthday" tape on very loud. Eventually I got the birthday feeling. After the service, the waiters invited me for a glass of champagne, and so on my way home in the metro with my flowers in hand, I could not stop to smile all the way....

Tomorrow after the lunch service my weekly 2.5 days off start, and I will take the train to Brussels where I meet my parents, and so the birthday feeling and smile should continue.

March 12, 2008

An ordinary day !?

Just like any day since beginning of February I left my appartment at 8:40 a.m., took the metro 10 stations to get out at "La Madeleine", entered the bistrot, had a very good espresso before climbing down the hundreds of years old wooden stairs into the "cave" and locker rooms to get into my cooks uniform. 

Official working time to be in the kitchen is 9 a.m., but with everybody having an esprosso first, it usually gets 9.15. For the month of March I am assigned to working "au chaud", on the hot line. This morning I prepared a "gratin dauphinois", which was the side dish for the "plat du jour", the entrecote. It needed to be planned to be for 20-30 orders, so it was a huge gratin. Then the usual "mise en place" checking if of everything for the service was ready and in enough quantity in the fridges, from lemons, to tomatoe cubes, to meat, fish, scallops, lobster, precooked vegetable. I cooked some potatoes, that are served with the sole meuniere and the "blanquette de veau", and prepared the mini-legumes that go with the lobster. Before 11 I also finished preparing the meal for the staff (4 cooks, 1 dishwasher and 4 servers), today roastbeef and pasta.

Like every day at 11 a.m. the chef kicked us out of the kitchen, even if we wanted to continue with the mise-en-place. But he insists on everybody respecting the break time. It is the first of the restaurants I have been working at where the staff eats at the normal customer tables and not on the pass or on the working benchens, so I am enjoying those 45 minutes. Like everyday I get back into the kitchen at 11:45 and double checked if everything was ready for the service to start. I quickly produced a sauce Bernaise, that we were running short of, that is served with the filet-frites. The amount is 10 times more that we used to do at school, so the techique and tools need to be adjusted a little bit, but I can do a sauce Bearnaise for 100 people perfectly now in one shot ! Customers come in starting at noon, and are accepted until 3 p.m. Today it was my turn to cook everything, while an appretice did the plating. Usually we take turns. The chef just interfered, when we were starting to "drown" or to be "dans le jus" (in the juice, or losing it).

We sold a lot of "blanquette de veau" today, a dish that goes very well, when it is cold outside. Basically it is a combination of big cubes of veal, carrots, bacon, potatoes, and small onions in a thick creamy sauce, not light but very yummy and the specialty of the bistrot. I also cooked ris de veau, andouillette, chicken breast with vegetables, pork feet, sole meuniere, filets de boeuf, "saignant" and "a point" perfectly mastered, something that was a mystery to me only 1 month ago, the plat du jour, entrecotes served with my gratin that the chef had complimented. Around 1 p.m. the apprentice and I got a bit in trouble, because the tickets were flowing in all at the same time. For each table the machine spits out a ticket twice, once when the customer orders (la commande), and once when the waiter wants the order on the customer table (la reclame). Depending on whether the customer has a starter or not, drinks an apero or not, eats slow or fast, the time between the reception of the two tickets at the hot line can be anything between 1 second and 20 minutes. So I started to lose it a little between knowing what I had to cook for sending out immediately, or what I had to prepare for later. Sometimes you can't wait for the second ticket, for example a pork feet cooks at least 15 minutes, so it must go in the oven with the first ticket. For an entrecote on the other hand, you just start to sear it, when you get the second ticket, and then imagine 15 tickets getting in at the same time... But the chef interfered a little bit to set the priorities and very quickly we were back on track.

Bistrot_march_12_2008_001

(my current work area at the end of today's service, with the last order for a table of two on the pass : a steak-frites with sauce bearnaise and an entrecote)

It got quiet for me around 2 p.m. when the last customers all had their main courses and moved on to desserts. But this month I am not in charge of them. So at that time I started to clean my area, the stove, the workbench, moving items back into the fridges, and cleaning the floor while being ready for late customers, which we have to accept, but everybody hates when they walk in at 2:50. Whether there is something to do or not, we have to stay in the kitchen until 3 p.m. and then are kicked out by the chef again. I took the metro back home, usually I take my afternoon nap before getting back at 6 p.m. to start the service at 6:45. But I decided I will skip the nap today, and instead be awake the most time possible today, and offer myself a nice café in the Café de la Place. 

Actually I don't want this day to be just an ordinary day.

March 05, 2008

A list of moments

"There is no happiness; there are only moments of happiness” says a Spanish proverb. I think there might be some truth to that. The last days I had a couple of such moments that made me smile for a while ....

Moment #1 :
The chef-owner of my bistrot is not present all the time, he comes in usually three days a week for the lunch service (he is also busy running a second restaurant). Then everybody gets nervous, when he is around, as he is pushing us to accelerate, is very demanding and creating quite some pressure. As long as he is not stressing me too much (he did become a little impatient with me a couple of times), I am quite excited when he is in, as he is the only one of the kitchen team with gastronomic experience including working for Ducasse. For example he turns mistakes into a kind of quiz to make people think why things turned out not the way they were supposed to. Why did the dough not become crispy ? Why is the dessert too liquid ? Also he is forcing everybody to taste every special of the day. But in general the team is very stressed out, when he is around, because he is double checking everything and often makes people redo all their work. When he came in this morning he said the pear tart he had seen yesterday, was the best one he has seen in a very very long time. (Every day we do one apple or pear tart as the "dessert du jour".) I will let my readers guess who had done that pear tart yesterday ! Any idea ? Writing this makes me smile again. I know that details and precision in pastry is something that I have a talent for, but it was very very good for my ego and for some recognition within the team, to have the big boss mentioning it very loud to everybody.

Moment #2 :
One thing I still find difficult is coming home around midnight from work, and go to bed immediately to get the quantity of sleep I would need at my age. I should, but I simply can't and don't want to. So to wind down, I need to have a little bit of entertainment, and since the energy level at that hour is relatively low and even in the animated Monparnasse neighbourhood everything closes down around midnight, I mostly end up in front of the TV. Since a couple of days I have a new internet subscription, that includes international TV programs, and I am sooo happy to be able to switch to something else than French TV. So now every night at midnight I have 30 happy minutes with Jay Leno, that make me giggle and sometimes laugh out lout.

Moment #3 :
Talking about the neighbourhood closing down at midnight (on weekdays), yesterday after my night service, I walked by the Cafe de la Place just before midnight on my way home. It was empty but outside in the rain was my favourite waiter having a cigarette (Since Jan 1st smoking is forbidden in bars and restaurants in France). Since he is always so nice to me, always guesses what I want to order before I even can pronounce it and makes me feel at home there, I decided to stop, shake hands and chat a little bit. Somehow we got to talk about my new profession, my exam last year (I spent all May and June with my books there to study) and life changes. Then he revealed his story, he was not the long experienced waiter that I thougth he was, but in fact the manager of the Cafe de la Place, having left his job as a trader at the Paris stock exchange 2 years ago at the age of 50, just to do eventually something that he enjoys, even if it has nothing to do with his education and university degrees. Amazing. I was very happy that I had decided to stop for a chat, and guess I will spend now even more time in the Cafe de la Place. I want to find out more about his story and who knows maybe even get some advice about my own project from someone who is already 2 steps ahead of me. 

Moment(s) #4:
I am counting down the days until Wednesday next week, I will get a year older again, and to celebrate the occasion I will cross the French border and meet some people that have considerably contributed to my existence on this planet, in Brussels durning my 2.5 days off. There will be happy moments then (Belgium is famous for beer, French (!) fries and chocolate truffels), but the moments of anticipation this week are happy too.